River Cottage Great Roasts

When I think of “roast dinners” as part of a cultural identity, it is British cuisine that comes to mind.  According to Food52, “the origins of the British Sunday roast reportedly date back as far as the 15th century, but the ritual—which is enjoyed across the United Kingdom and Ireland—became popular in the 19th century.”  While I didn’t grow up with roast dinners, cooking food in the oven is my favorite method.  (It also helps warm up my New England kitchen on a cold day.) I think it’s a lovely dining habit to have.

And when one thinks of British cuisine, the River Cottage brand may come to mind. My introduction to the River Cottage came by way of Heidi Swanson’s 101 Cookbooks blog, when she wrote about making homemade bouillon using a River Cottage recipe.  The brand has done television series, cookery courses, events, restaurants and products such as beer and organic yogurts.  The latest cookbook from the brand is “River Cottage Great Roasts” by Gelf Alderson.

The chapters you’ll find here are:

  • Breakfast and brunch,
  • Snacky things,
  • One-tray wonders,
  • All about veg,
  • Sunday roast,
  • Super sides,
  • Fruity numbers

The recipes seem to be an interesting variety:

  • Roast asparagus, lettuce, and eggs
  • Roast plums with star anise, oats, and kefir
  • Spiced roasted carrot and orange hummus
  • Fennel pork crackling
  • Smoked haddock with potatoes, spinach, cream, and thyme
  • Sausages with lentils and squash
  • Roast lettuce, spinach, and peas with herby breadcrumbs
  • Roast beetroot, cumin, and tomato crumble
  • Roast mushrooms with beer and dumplings
  • Roast parsnip, leek, and fennel curry
  • Spelt, kimchi, and apple pilaf with mangetout (snowpeas in the US) and green beans
  • Pot-roast brisket with beer, orange, and star anise
  • Roast purple sprouting broccoli with kimchi butter
  • Brussels sprouts with prunes, walnuts, and clementines
  • Roast swede (rutabaga in the US), Cheddar, and spring onion mash
  • Roast pears with ginger and toffee

While I’m not vegetarian, I find that it is the vegetarian recipes in this book that appeal to me the most.  I wanted to test a dessert recipe, but summer is already long gone so it was going to be challenging to find some of the ingredients (rhubarb, I’m looking at you).  I am also not cooking for 6-8 people, so I gravitated to the breakfast chapter the most.

The first recipe I made was crispy potatoes with bacon, tomatoes, and spinach.   Maybe this was cheating as I knew the flavors were all going to work together.  (The only other ingredients in this recipe were oil, salt, and pepper.)  But it never occurred to me to try to do it as a sheet pan recipe.  You start by cooking the potatoes and bacon, later adding the tomatoes, and finally throwing on the spinach to wilt toward the end of cooking.  While the recipe specified unsmoked bacon, it was just easier for me to get smoked thick cut bacon.  Even though I got the thick cut, it was too thin for cooking over the whole duration of this recipe.  I think next time, I’ll start with just the bacon, and then remove it before proceeding with the recipe.  What I liked best is that this is also lovely for lunch, or even a side dish for dinner.  This was so tasty, satisfying, and simple that this will probably go into regular rotation in my kitchen. (Hey, maybe I’ll put it on the Thanksgiving dinner table.)

The other recipe I tried was for spiced apple compote with apricots and toasted cereals.  The ingredients are apples, dried apricots, whole grain flakes (I used old fashioned rolled oats but rye flakes or wheat flakes are options), pumpkin seeds, and sunflower seeds.  My market was out of pumpkin seeds the day I was shopping, so I picked up sliced almonds instead.  You bake the fruit first, mash it, top with the oats and seeds, and bake a few minutes more.  I had doubts about baking the apricots with the apples.  I really worried that they would dry out.  They even looked a touch dry when I took the baking dish out of the oven to mash.  However, the mashing went on without issue, so I guess my fears were unfounded.  (But I might soak the dried apricots in water or apple juice next time just out of curiosity.)  The end results are like baked oatmeal without being baked oatmeal.  The topping doesn’t sink and bake into the fruit.  It stays pretty dry so it’s more like a crumble. I thought the color was a little anemic when it came out of the oven (there’s no oil in this recipe) so I broiled it for color.  If that is something that you think you also want to do, don’t walk away!  I got distracted and came pretty close to burning it.  (oops?)  But since the topping was still dry and loose, it was easy to spoon out the bits that were a touch too dark.  No real harm done, and it was totally my fault.  (Browning it was not part of the instructions.)  I loved this as a warm breakfast option.  I want to try other fresh fruits and dried fruits so this is also on the remake list.

If you’re on the hunt for comfy content, this book might be it. While some of the recipes have a lengthy ingredient list, most of the recipes are not fussy. For cooks who are not comfortable cooking in the metric system, beware that there is no U.S volumetric measurements listed in this book (but small measurements like teaspoons are given). Most of the recipes have a photo of the finished product, so I think the savvier cook could probably get away with visually guessing the amounts of main ingredients. If you’re looking to expand your oven cooking repertoire, then “Great Roasts” might fit the bill.

Disclaimer – I kindly received this book from Bloomsbury for this review.  I’m not getting paid for this post. The views and opinions expressed are purely my own. The book is available for purchase now from your preferred vendor.

Reference Links:

https://www.rivercottage.net/

Sweet Little Cakes From Mrs. Zabar’s Bakeshop review

I love baking desserts.  The only downside is that it means I am one person with too many desserts in the house.  Enter “Sweet Little Cakes From Mrs. Zabar’s Bakeshop” by Tracey Zabar.  This book offers 6″ cakes, 5″ bundt cakes, some of 8″x8″ bakes, etc.  Most of the recipes are meant to serve 4 people. Perfect.

The book is simply divided into the seasons: Fall, Winter, Spring, and Summer.

All of the recipes seem approachable, and appetizing.  Some of the desserts you’ll find here are:

  • Honey cake,
  • Pecan bars,
  • Almond-topped cake,
  • Pear cake,
  • Mango cake,
  • Lamingtons,
  • Pistachio cherry cake,
  • Pineapple-coconut cake,
  • Cheesecake with cherry sauce,
  • Chocolate roll,
  • Blueberry cake,
  • Apricot right-side-up cake,
  • Berry and fig muffins

The first recipe I tried was for chocolate chip muffins, mainly because I had all the ingredients: butter, sugar, egg, sour cream, vanilla extra, flour, baking powder, and chocolate chips.  It’s a pretty standard cake method where you cream the butter and sugar first.  And then you add the egg, and then the rest of the liquids.  Finally, you mix in the dry ingredients until just combined.  This recipe makes four cupcakes, but I admittedly made two jumbo cupcakes instead.

Then you have a choice of making a vanilla frosting or a chocolate frosting.  I went with the chocolate frosting, specifically a ganache frosting.  I had never made a proper ganache before.  My cream got too hot and I broke the ganache.  Luckily, it’s pretty easy to fix (with a little help of the internet).  I let mine cool down, added a touch more cream, and then re-whipped.  A related observation… Troubleshooting tips aren’t part of the format of the book – I think mostly because this isn’t a large book. You’re not getting any long recipe introductions or stories here.

The texture of my cupcakes didn’t quite look but that’s totally on me, not the recipe.  It wasn’t the jumbo size that caused the slightly dense texture but the fact that I baked them in my air fryer.  The outside set too quickly.  I thought perhaps that, since the batter was divided, it wouldn’t be a problem. (A more detailed post about baking in my air fryer to come in the near future.)

Texture aside, these were lovely cupcakes!  My frosting skills could use some work, but I really liked the cupcakes themselves.  They weren’t too heavy or too buttery, and the chocolate chips gave pops of flavor.  Above all, I loved that I didn’t have to worry about a load of leftovers.

Because I still didn’t want to go shopping for ingredients, the second recipe I tried was the everyday chocolate cake.  This recipe is technically for a 6-inch loaf cake, but I don’t own such a pan.  I do own a 6″ round cake pan, so I used that instead.  This cake is made with butter, sugar, bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, Dutch process cocoa, eggs, vanilla extract, cake flour, baking powder, and salt.  There’s also an option to add grated orange zest but chocolate and orange is not a flavor combo that I adore.  Making this cake was a lot like making brownies.  You melt the chocolate and butter together, then mix in the cocoa powder.  In another bowl, you mix the sugar, eggs, and vanilla.  Then you mix the two liquids together.  You finish by mixing in the dry ingredients until just combined, and bake.

The results were delicious but I would describe it as a cakey brownie overall.  I’ve had long conversations with my best friends (both of whom prefer chocolate cakes over brownies, while I think brownies reign supreme), and when they have chocolate cake, they don’t want it to taste like brownies.  I think it’s ultimately “a melted chocolate” vs “cocoa powder only” in the batter debate.  All that is to say this recipe is good but might not be what you imagine from an everyday chocolate cake.  I realized afterward that there is a recipe for a checkerboard cake that is vanilla and chocolate layers.  That recipe doesn’t utilize melted chocolate, so I might have to experiment with a half batch of that recipe.

Weirdly, this last comment relates to my only critique of the book – there’s quite a bit of chocolate related recipes.  There’s a chocolate babka, a flourless chocolate cake, an everything cake (which I think actually is a brownie recipe without saying brownie in the title), and chocolate chip madeleines.  Oh, wait – there’s also the fudgy cake recipe which is a second flourless chocolate cake. I love chocolate but I’m not sure I needed that many chocolate recipes. (I guess time will tell.)

For non-U.S. readers, it should also be noted that this book is only in volumetric measurements, no gram measurements.  It’s kind of a bummer, but I can see the argument that it’s less of an issue since you’re baking on a smaller scale.  Some ingredients wouldn’t weigh well unless you have a gram scale/pastry scale anyway.

But boy oh boy, if you like baking desserts and just don’t want too much in leftovers, this is a much desired book! I also appreciate the aesthetics of the book. The photos are bright and simple, simply concentrating on the baked goods. The book is focused on cakes. If cookies are more your thing, it looks like Zabar has an older release titled “Chocolate Chip Sweets: Celebrated Chefs Share Favorite Recipes”.

Disclaimer – I kindly received a copy of this book from Rizzoli New York for this review.  I’m not getting paid for this post. The views and opinions expressed are purely my own.  This book is available for purchase through your favorite retailer, and will be released next week on September 5th.

Reference Links:

https://traceyzabar.com/

https://zabars.typepad.com/zabars/

https://www.rizzoliusa.com/book/9780847873623/

“Egg Rolls and Sweet Tea” review

This might be my favorite cookbook released this year, and this isn’t hyperbole.  “Egg Rolls and Sweet Tea” by Natalie Keng is an “Asian inspired, Southern style” cookbook that I related to on a very personal level.  She’s the daughter of Cantonese-Chinese immigrants who moved to Georgia, U.S.A.  Her palate was formed by both her heritage and her environment.  (Swap Georgia with Boston, Massachusetts, and that’s me.) For Keng, “fusion food” isn’t a trend from the 1990s, it’s simply a way of life because “authenticity” isn’t black and white. 

The chapters in this book are:

  • Wrap and Roll
  • Wild About Rice
  • Veggie Mania and Wok the Garden
  • Lil’ Plates, Appetizers, and Snacks
  • Noodles, Salads, and Slaw
  • Buddha Bubba, Meat and Bones
  • Gone Fishin’
  • Gettin’ Saucy
  • Semisweets

Some of the recipes that I want to try are:

  • Oven-Baked Country Bacon and Collard Egg Rolls
  • Ginger-Spiced Sweet Plantains
  • Five-Spice Mashed Rutabaga
  • Sweet Chili Peach Napa Slaw
  • Savory Miso-Butter Garlic Noodles
  • Mom’s Chinese Spaghetti
  • Game-Day Five-Spice Sausage Meatballs with Teriyaki Sauce
  • Joy Luck BBQ Pulled Pork Bao Buns
  • Late-Night Fish Sticks Congee
  • Gotcha Matcha Ice Cream Pie
  • Zesty Ginger-Peach Cobbler
  • Black Sesame Cupcakes with Matcha Frosting
  • Jasmine and Honey Sweet Tea
  • Golden Milk and Sorghum Hot Toddy

My inaugural recipe was for the cinnamon-molasses oolong milk tea, because it sounded delicious but more importantly because I had all the ingredients: cinnamon sticks, oolong tea, milk, molasses, and vanilla.  I was impressed because these were not flavors that I would have picked on my own to pair.  It was sweet, but not much more so than if I were to go to a bubble tea shop and order a drink with “less sugar.”  (If you’re going to use loose tea, I think you’ll need at least 1.5 tsp worth.  I used 1 tsp for the recipe and I think the flavor should have been stronger.  I could still taste it, but it took a backseat to the other flavors.)

The second recipe I made was the first recipe of the book: smoked salmon summer rolls.  (Rice paper wrappers are my favorite.)  It’s reminiscent of a tuna salad and of a lox bagel, but served as a favorite hot weather dish from Asia.  It’s made with smoked salmon, minced basil, minced mint, chopped scallions, capers, mayo, wasabi powder, milk, cucumber, rice vermicelli noodles, and rice paper wrappers. This was both fun and delicious.

Normally, I test 2 recipes from a book (sometimes 3), with very little alterations. I think it’s only fair to make recipes as written for reviews. But I just couldn’t resist making a third recipe with a major method change. I really wanted to make “Mom’s unfried red rice with berries” which includes goji berries. I may or may not have too much goji berries in my pantry, courtesy of my mother. My family mostly uses it for soups, so I liked the idea of putting it into a rice dish. This recipe has you cook red rice with some bouillon, water, raisins, dried goji berries, dried cranberries, nuts or seeds, garlic powder, white pepper, five-spice powder, and salt on the stovetop for almost an hour, before mixing in some butter. I’m not an Asian snob who will only make rice in a rice cooker (in fact, I don’t use a rice cooker at home) but I really didn’t want to simmer rice on a muggy June day. So, I broke out my electric pressure cooker. Stovetop red rice instructions seem to generally be 1 part rice to 2 parts water, but pressure cookers don’t that much water because the water is not evaporating off. For the 1 1/2 cups of rice in this recipe, I tried 2 1/2 cups water. It was a touch too much water. So, dear reader, if you get your hands on a copy of this book and want to make the red rice in a pressure cooker as well, try either 2 1/4 cups or 2 1/3 cups water. If your dried fruits are dried out, try 2 1/3 cups. If not, try 2 1/4 cups. But even so, the flavors of the final dish were fantastic. I can’t wait to try this out on my family during our next potluck.

If you appreciate fusion food for what it really is, you will enjoy this book. If you have an Asian American background, I think you will enjoy this book. If you’re looking for creative takes on Southern cooking, try out this book. I’m not saying that I’m going to make all of Keng’s recipes. After all, I have too many recipes that I want to make and never enough time, or fridge/pantry space. And like any cookbook (or restaurant menu for that matter), not everything appeals to me. But so much of this book sounds fun and somehow familiar, that I look forward to sharing with friends and family.

Disclaimer – I kindly received a copy of this book from Gibbs Smith for this review.  I’m not getting paid for this post. The views and opinions expressed are purely my own.  This book is available for purchase now through your favorite retailer.

Reference Links:

https://chinesesouthernbelle.com/

https://gibbs-smith.com/

The Vegan Guide to Tokyo, review

I have happy memories of Japan. It’s been over 10 years since my last visit, and when I was there, I wasn’t documenting food experiences the way I do now. Food related social media was still mostly in the blogging stage, and I was less financially stable. I think there was only one expensive restaurant that my friends and I went to. It was mostly eating wherever was convenient, and navigable as English-speakers. There was some CoCo Ichibanya (we all love Coco-ichi!), udon soup ramen from small shops, maybe a Moss Burger visit, and LOTS OF CONVENIENCE STORE FOOD. (Though it sounds terrible to say convenience stores, grabbing cutlet buns and onigiri from 7-11 and Lawson is never to be regretted.)

I can’t imagine trying to explore the food scene with food restrictions back then, but things are different now.

If you’re vegan and staying in the Tokyo area, you can easily look things up in English online (a quick Google search gave 12 million results). But if you want a centralized reference that isn’t a listicle of the “15 best”, then I recommend giving “The Vegan Guide to Tokyo” by Chiara Terzuolo a read.

The book is divided by locations which makes it easier to plan where you’re going to eat based where you’re going to be:

  • Shinjuku,
  • Shibuya/Yoyogi,
  • Ginza,
  • Harajuku/Omotesando/Aoyama,
  • Asakusa/Ueno,
  • Roppongi,
  • Shimokitazawa,
  • Airports and Tokyo Station,
  • Ebisu/Daikanyama,
  • Jiyugaoka,
  • Nakameguro,
  • Honourable Mentions (gives 1 recommendation per neighborhood like Kichijoji and Komagome),
  • Day Trips from Tokyo,
  • Kyoto and Osaka

Almost every entry provides the address, directions, store hours, general cost, and some of the items that you’ll find on the menu. The photos are appealing and inviting. The restaurants listed cover a large variety of offerings: pizza, tapas, yoshoku (Japanese-style Western cuisine), desserts, coffee shops, etc.

If I could go to Tokyo right now, I’d put Ovgo B.A.K.E.R Meiji St. on my to-do list. They offer cookies and scone/cookie hybrids. Baked goods are 400-600 yen, and they even offer a banana split for 1980 yen. (Note – they only serve 20 banana splits per day!) Some of the cookies are American-style but some are Japanese-inspired flavors like matcha coconut.

On the more extravagant side, I would also put Sougo on my to-do list. Located in Roppongi, Michelin-star chef Daisuke Nomura provides fully vegan Buddhist cuisine at Sougo. The menu rotates and is seasonal. Cost is 8800 yen for lunch (approximately 67 USD at the time of this post), and 14,300 yen for dinner (about 108 USD). So, this restaurant is ‘omakase’ style, meaning it’s a set menu completely curated by the chef. You are not ordering off a menu.

Toward the back of the book, you can find some handy phrases like “does this contain honey?” or “does this contain gluten?”. The best and cutest little item is the very last page where you punch out a card that says “I am vegan, and do not eat meat, fish, seafood (including soup bases or flavorings), or any animal products (eggs, milk products, honey).” So you can whip out the card whenever communication is a problem!

I know this isn’t my usual type of post, but I thought “The Vegan Guide to Tokyo” seems useful for anyone ready to go back into international travel and aiming to head to Japan. You don’t have to be vegan as all the restaurants sound good.

Disclaimer – I kindly received a copy of this book from Smith Street Books/Rizzoli New York for this review.  I’m not getting paid for this post. The views and opinions expressed are purely my own.  This travel book is available for pre-purchase from your favorite bookshops, and gets released next week.

Reference Links:

https://www.instagram.com/tokyoveganguide

https://www.rizzoliusa.com/book/9781922754196/

Natural Bakes review

Before I offer a positive review for “Natural Bakes” by Caroline Griffiths, I want to set expectations.  The subtitle of the cover is “everyday gluten-free, sugar-free baking.”  Yes, the recipes here are gluten-free, but it’s the “sugar-free” claim that I want to nitpick.  What the book really means is that it is mainly sucrose free. In addition to not finding granulated sugar here, there’s no coconut sugar, no maple syrup, no honey.  The main sweeteners used are dextrose and rice malt syrup. (So I’m not exactly sure if you want to call this “natural” either. But that’s a different topic.)  There is a little bit of use of applesauce/apple puree and dates, but not significantly.  (There is also a lot of use of pure monk fruit extract but more on that later.)  I understand the overall reason for it.  I’m not a scientist or a nutritionist, so apologies for the following speedy explanation.  The author is relying on forms of glucose as the main sweetener. Glucose is the main source of energy in our bodies, meaning the body can process it effectively.  Sucrose, on the other hand, is 50-50 of fructose and glucose.  It’s fructose that our bodies might have trouble absorbing because it’s a more complicated process.  Also to note, glucose facilitates the break down of fructose so, if we’re ingesting too much fructose, we’re increasing the likelihood of health issues.

If you’re diabetic or pre-diabetic, either skip this book or be prepared to use the sweetener substitution that I used because pure glucose will impact your blood sugar levels.  

Now, let’s get to the actual review.

This book isn’t a tome, and is simply broken down into:

  • Cookies,
  • Small bakes,
  • Cakes,
  • Celebration cakes,
  • Sweet endings,
  • Basics

Some of the recipes that I would have liked to make but couldn’t because I didn’t have the right ingredients are:

  • Chocolate sandwich cookies,
  • Passionfruit cashew cream melting moments,
  • Fudgy roasted cocoa cookies,
  • Banana chai blondies,
  • Almond, mandarin and orange blossom madeleines,
  • Carrot, parsnip and cardamom loaf,
  • Lime cheesecake tart,
  • Chocolaty sweet potato and macadamia cream cake,
  • Lemon tart,
  • Creamy raspberry and orange tart

I’ve thought about baking with dextrose before but I think I was intimidated by the “quit sugar” culture.  I remember reading something akin to “if you go down this route, you must never touch sugar again!” which, in hindsight, doesn’t fully make sense.  But more importantly, I try not to keep too many uncommon pantry ingredients.  So dextrose, rice malt syrup, and pure monk fruit extract were items that I didn’t have on hand for this review.  I scoured through the ingredient lists to find what I could reasonably make with little alteration as possible.

The first recipe I made was for the brown butter shortbread fingers.  The ingredients are few: butter, gluten-free blend #1 (found in the Basics chapter), dextrose, monk fruit extract (listed as optional), pecans, and vanilla.  Gluten-free blend #1 is made of a third brown rice flour, and the rest is tapioca and potato starches.  

I’ve heard that dextrose is less sweet than table sugar so I thought allulose would be a reasonable replacement as allulose is also less sweet.  While allulose would qualify as a specialty pantry ingredient, I have been experimenting with it for almost a year now because one of my best friends has type 2 diabetes.  Allulose is a rare naturally occurring sugar that doesn’t spike blood sugar levels, is deemed safe so far, and bakes pretty well as a sugar replacement.  And since monk fruit extract was listed as optional, I didn’t feel bad about leaving it out completely.

The recipe itself is easy.  The butter is melted, browned, and then cooled.  The dry ingredients are mixed, then mixed with the browned butter, vanilla, and nuts.  When they’re done baking, you cut them into bars (I did squares) before they completely cool.  Overall, the results are good.  These cookies are very barely sweet, and the toasted pecans help to make them more interesting.  I wonder if I should have browned the butter a touch longer as the flavor was lighter than I expected.  It still satisfied my cookie cravings, and I didn’t have to go out to buy anything special.  I already had on hand the ingredients.  My only real critique is that I think the flavor and texture is too starchy.  It almost feels gummy as I chew on a cookie, like the starches are hydrating in my mouth, so I think it’s the flour blend that I’m not in love with.  I’d be curious to remake these cookies with a different flour blend. 

I’ve not experimented with monk fruit extract yet.  Most monk fruit products that I can easily find in the northeastern area of the U.S. are always blended with a sugar substitute like erythritol.**  Real monk fruit is extremely sweet, so a little of the extract will go a long way.  If you really have a sweet tooth, I recommend adding the optional extract in this recipe.

The second recipe I made was the spiced apple and cream cheese muffins.  The muffins use a different flour blend from the Basics chapter (sorghum, potato starch, tapioca starch, and glutinous rice flour) along with dextrose, baking powder, cinnamon, mixed pie spice/pumpkin spice, monk fruit extract, almond flour, diced apple, cream cheese, eggs, and buttermilk.  This time, there was more monk fruit extract and it was not marked as optional ingredient, which made sense only 1/3 cup dextrose was used for 12 muffins.  This was the only time I made a major change.  I skipped the monk fruit and upped the sweetener to 1/2 cup of allulose.  Otherwise, this was another easy recipe to make.  You mix the cream cheese with the eggs, but don’t worry about making this smooth.  We want lumps of cream cheese.  Then add the buttermilk.  You mix the dry ingredients in another bowl, and then mix everything together.  When baked up, you have a delightful muffin that has little sweet pockets of apple and little tangy bits of cream cheese. I originally worried that the recipe asked for too much of the spice, but it worked out fine.

While I disliked the flour blend of the cookies, the flour blend for the muffins worked well.  The texture and flavor were good.

There are a couple more recipes that I want to make but I can’t do it without the rice malt syrup so I think I’ll give in and seek it out.  I don’t think I’m going to pick up some dextrose at this time though.  I’m ok with using allulose instead.  (Or dare I just go rogue and swap the rice malt syrup with honey or maple syrup?) For now, I’ll see how far I can go without the monk fruit extract.

If you don’t have any qualms about buying specialty ingredients and you don’t have any health issues wherein you need to watch your blood sugar, then this seems to be a good book. More so, if you’re gluten-free.  You might have to adjust some things to your liking.  For example, there’s no salt mentioned in any of the recipes.  Maybe it’s because these recipes aren’t sweet enough to warrant salt to balance the flavor?  I didn’t add any salt to the cookies or muffins, and they seem to be ok to me.

Oh, and this book is originally Australian so it uses weighed measurements. It offers grams and ounces, but if you’re insistent on volumetric measurements, then this will matter to you. As I’ve mentioned in the past, I like to work in both systems so I have a kitchen scale. The book was also written for a fan-forced oven aka convection oven. I don’t have one, and I think most American households still don’t. I simply increased the baking temperature, so if a recipe was 350F with fan, I used 375F without fan.

** = I hate the “fake” monk fruit products.  It’s mostly erythritol because of cost.  I think they taste weird and bitter.  

Disclaimer – I kindly received a copy of this book from Smith Street Books/Rizzoli New York for this review.  I’m not getting paid for this post. The views and opinions expressed are purely my own.  This cookbook is currently available for purchase from your favorite bookshops.

Reference Links:

A timely Youtube link if you’d like to listen to Adam Ragusea talk about sugar

www.rizzoliusa.com/book/9781922754141/

The apple cream cheese muffin recipe, but not the gluten-free version (has volumetric measurements though)

Weekend interlude

For anyone not following my IG, I’m experimenting with making dosa for the first time.

I saw the Bon Appetit video where Sohla and Brad make some, and realized that I technically had all the ingredients.  In fact, I have a lot of rice and lentils, courtesy of my grandmother.  So, this might be a regular thing I do during quarantine.

I’m working on cleaning out my pantry, so this batch is purple because some black rice was used.  I’m not mad at it.  🙂

Reference Link:

https://www.seriouseats.com/2018/05/a-dosa-delicious-how-to-make-the-savory-south-asian-crepes-your-own.html

 

Half the Sugar All the Love, a bookbook review

I know this doesn’t happen with everyone, but my tolerance for sweets has declined with age.  For example (and this is a true story), I drank chocolate milk every morning for probably 75% of my life. For most of those years, it was Nestle Quik.  Once I thought it was tasting too sweet, I started making my batches with cocoa powder and experimenting with things like black walnut bitters. And then, one day, I just couldn’t do it anymore.  I still like the occasional hot chocolate but it’s just that… occasional.

On top of that, I have a close family member with type 1 diabetes, so I try not to bake sweets for my family anymore.  (Instead, I’ll hoist my baking adventures onto my work colleagues.)

So with a title like “Half the Sugar, All the Love”, the latest cookbook by Jennifer Tyler Lee and Anisha Patel really got my attention.

The book is sectioned into:

  • Breakfasts
  • Snacks
  • Lunches and salads
  • Dinners
  • Desserts
  • Beverages
  • Basics and Condiments

 

I like that the book makes a distinction between naturally occurring sugar and added sugar.  There are nutritional guidelines, and explanation about the different kinds of added sugar.

Personally, I focused more on the recipes for breakfasts, snacks, and desserts.  I feel like they are the area where added sugar is the biggest culprit. The lunches/salads, and dinner chapters almost felt like “filler” chapters.  Don’t get me wrong, all the recipes sound good. Some of the recipes you’ll find in the lunches/salads, and dinner chapters are:

  • Salmon yaki onigiri
  • Alphabet soup
  • Fall harvest mason jar salad with creamy poppy seed dressing
  • Romaine and cherry tomato salad with miso dressing
  • Vietnamese chicken noodle soup
  • Beef and broccoli teriyaki bowl
  • Pineapple teriyaki salmon burgers with sriracha mayo

 

If you ate these dishes out, there probably would be added sugar.  But since these are all savory dishes, if you cook them at home, they don’t have much added sugar.  I think the only exception would be the teriyaki sauce.

I really wanted to make something from the dessert chapter.  The chocolate and peanut butter snack cake speaks to me personally, but I’ve been doing more baking more desserts than usual, so I ended up picking Blueberry Oat Muffins as my introductory recipe.

The muffin recipe does not use any granulated sugar.  It gets its sweetness from homemade date syrup. I also liked the amount of whole grain being used, which is a blend of oat flour, whole wheat flour, and flaxseed.  It’s actually quite a bit of ground flaxseed – a whole ½ cup! This is not something I see a lot of in muffin recipes, so I was quite curious.

I made a few minor changes that I don’t think had much of an impact on overall flavor.  I used raspberries instead of blueberries (because I had them and I’m trying to clean out my food stores right now), spelt flour instead of wheat flour (because commercial wheat flour generally tastes like cardboard), and I baked this in a dish instead of making individual muffins (I’m just lazy).  

It makes a lot of batter!  I can usually swap a 12 muffin recipe with my favorite baking dish and estimate the oven time without a problem.  This time I had to cook for a lot longer than I was anticipating. So, I think there’s a really good chance you’ll get more than 12 muffins out of this recipe.  That’s not a bad or a good thing. It’s just a comment.

The batter itself came together pretty easily.  Expect to take a little longer to put this together than other muffin recipes because you’re making your own date syrup and your own oat flour.  As for final results, I really liked this but it does taste very healthy. The sweetness from the dates is really mild. I wouldn’t be surprised if other people don’t like this muffin much.  I ate mine with some Fage Greek yogurt, and it made for a great breakfast.

Other recipes that I am interested to make are:

  • Cherry-oatmeal breakfast cookies (I love breakfast cookies)
  • Fruit and nut granola
  • Overnight French toast strata with raspberry sauce
  • Blueberry scones
  • Maple brown butter corn bread
  • Blondies with white chocolate and almonds
  • Double chocolate brownies
  • Pecan pie bars
  • Chocolate and peanut butter snack cake
  • Double chocolate layer cake with whipped chocolate frosting
  • Hot chocolate blocks

 

The book isn’t being released until Christmas Eve, so it’ll be difficult to gift it for the holidays but I think this is a great book for someone is health conscious or someone who is just looking for a good all-around family cookbook.  I look forwarding to baking from this book and feeling like it’s ok to share with my diabetic family member.

 

Disclaimer – I kindly received this book from Workman Publishing for this review.  I’m not getting paid for this post. The views and opinions expressed are purely my own.  

 

Reference Links:

https://www.52newfoods.com/half-sugar-cookbook/

https://www.workman.com/products/half-the-sugar-all-the-love

 

 

Recent food adventures

 

 

:: Did a koji and miso fermentation workshop with OurCookQuest.  I really enjoyed it, and it was fun being around other food nerds.

:: I’ve attended a few of this semesters Science and Cooking lectures, presented by Harvard University’s School of Engineering and Applied Sciences.  So far, I’ve seen Margarita Fores, Wylie Dufresne with Ted Russin, and Vicky Lau.  I’ve learned that the nipa palm looks like a torture device, and don’t make donuts unless you’re crazy.  lol!

:: And most recently, I attended a lunch at Juliet in Somerville, MA.  It was a stop on Yvette Van Boven’s Homemade Christmas book tour.  The lunch menu was inspired by the book.  Both Yvette and her husband, Oof Verschuren, are wonderful people, really friendly and down to earth.  I’m so glad I got to meet them both.

Waste Not, a cookbook review

Being earth friendly is something that makes me anxious or angry.

I really don’t understand people who litter.  It’s an eye sore.   It’s a complete disregard for the community.  And it’s pretty much going to stay there forever unless someone threw away something like a banana peel.  I can’t tell you how many pieces of plastic, glass, and foil I see walking down just a few blocks on my street.  I swear that there’s someone out here who likes tucking in empty potato chip bags in the nooks and crannies of trees and fences consistently.  That’s when I get angry.

But a more complicated relationship between me and the earth happens in the kitchen.  To start, there were two summers where I shared a vegetable CSA with my sister and I had trouble getting through my share.  Sometimes, I had items that I didn’t like (fresh gooseberries and fresh currants for example).  But more often I had vegetables that I just didn’t cook soon enough and they’d start to rot.  So I don’t participate in CSAs anymore.

But I feel guilty even over normal kitchen waste like apple cores, bell pepper seeds, etc.  It makes me anxious.  I installed a composter in my backyard just to help alleviate my guilt.  But half of the time, I don’t even make it to the composter.  And it’s only good for vegetable scraps.  I can’t compost animal products.  

Oh, and whey!  Since I make my own yogurt, I like to strain it sometimes, but I don’t know what to do with the leftover whey.

So, my new experiment is to try to use up food scrapes whenever possible.  I recently received a copy of Waste Not by the James Beard Foundation.  The book is a collection of recipes and tips from different chefs on how to be less wasteful.

The book is sectioned into five chapters:

  • From Stem to Stem
  • Meat, Bones, Skin and Scales
  • Tops and Bottoms, Pits and Peels
  • Second-Day Solutions
  • Prolonged and Preserved

There is a recipe for leftover whey and that is whey cooked heirloom grains (specifically grits).  I’m really looking forward to trying that.  Other recipes that I’d like to use in no particular order:

  • Rainbow Chard Noodles
  • Squash Seed Tahini
  • Baked Potato Stock
  • Schmaltz Mashed Potatoes
  • Chicken Liver Dumplings (don’t worry, the liver is mixed with dark meat and lots of seasoning)

The only thing I don’t care for in this book is the photography.  It’s like someone went crazy with Instagram’s Lo-Fi filter and then some.

For recipe testing, I picked out the kale stem crackers (because my mother unexpectedly gifted me with a bunch of kale… like a mother does).

It was very easy to put together, but my crackers didn’t firm up at all.  I rolled them out by hand to 1/4” which is what was the thickness in the directions, but I think I should have made it thinner.  Or maybe bake halfway, cut, and then bake again like you would with biscotti.  Not sure.

More importantly, they were surprisingly tasty and very savory!  I’m now thinking I should try dinner rolls with kale stems and garlic.

I’ve tried salvaging kale stems before by pickling them but this was much more my speed.  (I’m not a huge fan of pickles.  Kimchi, yes.  Pickles, not so much.)  So I can safely say that this book as a lot of good ideas on how to use up those items in your fridge that you might not realize are edible or were going to toss in the trash.  Since the recipes were written by different people, it’s hard for me to gauge if other recipes may need tweaking like I think the cracker recipe needs.  Regardless, it’s a great place to start if you want to move to a more zero-waste lifestyle or just need some inspiration.

Disclaimer – I received this book from Rizzoli for this review.  I’m not getting paid for this post. The views and opinions expressed are purely my own.

Reference Links:

https://www.rizzoliusa.com/book/9780847862788/

Kenji’s Vegan Ramen, a Kitchen Conclusion (and a spice blend for you)

I’m a huge fan of Serious Eats.  Besides referring to it for general cooking questions I might have, I really adore their series “The Vegan Experience” (and I’m not vegan… heck, I’m not even vegetarian).

One of the vegan recipes that I bookmarked but was intimidated by the number of ingredients and steps was Kenji Lopez-Alt’s Ultimate Rich and Creamy Vegan Ramen With Roasted Vegetables and Miso Broth.  What does one do when they are not sure they can pull off a recipe on their own?  In my case, it was finding a friend who said “So when you want to cook together? I want to do something new and crazy.  Just something fun, y’know?”

New?  Check.  Crazy?  Check.

Let’s do this thing!

Our observations:

The ingredient list isn’t all that bad.  It would have been nice if there had been a condensed shopping list.  It’s essentially this:

eggplant
onion
garlic
ginger
oil*
fresh shiitake
fresh maitake
kombu*
dried porcini
dried shiitake*
napa cabbage
leek
scallions
sweet potato
shichimi togarashi*
mirin*
soy sauce*
miso*
tahini*
noodles

Everything with an asterisk were things already in my pantry.  Well, except for the shichimi togarashi but we’ll get to that later.  And for the ramen noodles, Jared and I decided to be extra experimental and try the pasta with baking soda trick.  Several times, we asked each other if we had forgotten something because our shopping cart seemed like it didn’t have nearly enough ingredients waiting to be paid for.

One hurdle done.

But the doing?… ah, this was the real challenge.

And half the challenge was matching the ingredient list with the ramen component we were working on.  We both really wanted to reformat the whole recipe for easier reading in the kitchen.

On my own, I had read the recipe through a couple of times but I wish I had studied the photos in the blog post more.  We didn’t notice that the sweet potatoes and the maitake were not mixed on the baking sheet.  It made for a slight inconvenience to pick out sweet potato chunks for the blender.

For the soy-tare, I would leave the ginger and scallions in large identifiable pieces because you have to separate it from the quartered shiitake caps when done.

We also recommend upping the eggplant from 1 small to 2 small.  We had very little eggplant compared to the number of servings when all was said and done.  Also, you don’t get a lot of cooked liquid from 1 small eggplant.  Spinning out said liquid felt fiddly.

But more importantly, how did it taste?

The components of the ramen are their own were good but nothing I felt impressed by.  The baking soda noodles were really interesting!  The baking soda made the noodles a bit chewier, and taste very eggy.  The sweet potatoes baked in the spice blend gave a nice heat that quick dissipated.  But, altogether, the dish was very lovely and satisfying.  Jared’s wife got a gluten free version for health reasons.  We replaced the soy sauce with GF tamari in the recipe, and made a separate pot of rice noodles just for her.  Her reaction was “This is amazing!”  We also fed a friend of theirs who is vegetarian and planning to go mostly vegan.  The friend thought it was one of the best things she had had in a very long time.  In short, those with dietary restrictions are probably going to enjoy it best.

I can definitely see myself making parts of the recipe for other noodle and soup recipes.  I’m not sure if I’ll ever make the whole recipe on my own (but if I do, I think I would spread it over two days).  Jared and I may make it again, but not for at least 6 months and we’ve had time to recover from the amount of steps this ramen involved.

I will definitely make the sweet potatoes again.  I never thought to bake them with shichimi togarashi before, and I like the idea blending some of it to give the broth more body.  True story, I’ve never cared for shichimi togarashi before.  So I didn’t have it in my pantry, nor did I see the point in buying it for just this recipe.  So I made it with ingredients I did have in my pantry.  The spice blend is supposed to be a blend of seven spices.  (Shichi means seven.)  I used five, so I’m going to start calling my blend “five-mi togarashi.”  It is not traditional but I was quite happy with it.  (I suppose I could also call it go-mi togarashi since go is five in Japanese).

FIVE-MI TOGARASHI (GO-MI TOGARASHI)

1 tablespoon mandarin orange dust
4 teaspoons gochugaru
2 teaspoons toasted sesame seed
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper

Mix altogether, and store in a tightly fitted lidded jar.

Reference Links

https://www.seriouseats.com/2015/02/how-to-make-the-ultimate-vegan-ramen-rich-and-creamy-vegan-experience.html

https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2015/02/vegan-ramen-miso-creamy-vegan-vegetarian-food-lab-recipe.html

http://penandfork.com/recipes/cooking-tips/mandarin-orange-dust/